Who today travels along the Via Francigena, perhaps on foot, slowly as a wayfarer should, can discover minor itineraries rich in history and traditions.
The modern traveller can come across important monuments that still tell about the history and the culture of pilgrimage like for example the Cathedral of Fidenza that was built to embellish the Via Francigena; he can discover hidden architectural jewels like the Pieve di Bardone, a parish church in Romanesque style, situated at the foot of the mountain pass of Monte Bardone ( Cisa ); he can visit sanctuaries and touch relics that for centuries have attracted crowds of pilgrims, like the mysterious and much revered Volto Santo ( Holy Face ), a crucifix worshipped in the Cathedral of San Martino in Lucca; he can find the signs of a “ minor “ devotion, relevant for understanding the spirit of the ancient pilgrims: wayside shrines, votive offerings, crosses to indicate the way, pious inscriptions …Other signs recognizable only by lovers of “ slow travelling “, are, on the way to Rome, the many effigies of the Volto Santo (the Holy Face ) that can be seen along the roads to and from Lucca, or the beautiful “ maestà “ ( effigies of the Virgin ) in Carrara marble put onto the front of the houses along the roads in Lunigiana and Versilia by skillful craftsmen and sincere devouts. But not all treasures on the way to Rome are sacred, many are profane, like the natural Roman baths at Bagnaccio near Viterbo or the great medieval openair pool built to contain the hot springs at Bagno Vignoni near Siena. Wonderful places for refreshment and rest!

It is possible to walk along untouched stretches of the old route for example at Castellonchio, before Berceto, close to the old mountain pass at Monte Bardone, or in Tuscany, at Galleno, or around Viterbo, at Capranica where, under hazeltrees in places linked to the memory of Charlemagne and the chanson de geste, it is still possible to walk on the original roman Via Cassia that can be seen through the grass. In the area of Baccano, near Rome, the Via Cassia is still intact and walking along the route the traveller can see many remains from the pilgrimage period : granaries, fortified bridges, hospitals, stopping – places, cisterns, mills, old inns …

How to revitalize the Via Francigena

Now that the connections between Italy and Europe are easy, fast and numerous and the old pilgrimage route is part of a much wider and flexible network of roads, it is important to try to revitalize the Via Francigena, and to fully restore the dignity of the route, already recognized by the Council of Europe, at least on paper. Doing this, a very important part of our history and our culture will also be restored. It is not an easy task because the Via Francigena, differently from the Cammino di Santiago route, has never had a proper mythology and proper identity and it has no longer a solid tradition as a pilgrimage route.
The Santiago route was born and supported by a precise political will of defence against Islam; the Via Francigena was just one of many roads that led to Rome and in itself it was composed of a number of possible routes. In the course of centuries it has never been supported by a unitary political will with a precise aim. Now, if we really want to revitalize this route, as has been done to the Santiago route, it is necessary to carry out research and map out a unitary route and then revitalize it both as a cultural route and as a route for excursionists and walkers.
For those who want to travel this route on foot or on bicycle adequate signs and maps are required; itineraries apart from the traffic are required; official credentials are required and, behind our initiative, l’Associazione dei Comuni italiani sulla Via Francigena has already made arrangements; low cost, well organized, efficient, well distributed accommodation facilities are required. Also, a special reception office for pilgrims would be useful in the Vatican, like the one that already exists at the Cathedral in Santiago, and special religious celebrations would be welcome too. Only in this way will it be possible to incourage those who wish to follow in the footsteps of the ancient pilgrims and visit our beautiful country in a slow, natural and more human way; only in this way the Via Francigena will become a real route for Europe.

WEB: www.associazioneviafrancigena.com